PUERTO VIEJO, Costa Rica — Rain-forest zip-lining. White-water rafting. Sea kayaking. Surfing, hiking and snorkeling.

The lengthy list of outdoor activities posted at Banana Azul, a beachside lodge just outside this Caribbean coastal town, would please even the most jaded adventure traveler.

But Melani Gordon, 31, an Internet marketing entrepreneur from San Diego, is ready for a break.

“It’s hammock time,” she says, grabbing paperbacks and heading toward the palm trees beside a nearly deserted Playa Negra.

Indeed, chilling out — albeit amid crashing surf and seaside jungles rife with noisy howler monkeys — remains the primary draw for visitors to the reggae-infused towns that line Costa Rica’s southeastern shore. Long a stop on the Central American surfer circuit, Puerto Viejo, along with smaller beach towns Cahuita and Manzanillo, has always attracted the international backpacking set. But now an increase in midrange lodging and restaurants, coupled with continued interest in the country’s adventure and eco-tourism offerings, are luring a more varied crowd.

That’s evident at places such as Banana Azul, a whimsically designed open-air hotel that’s almost always full, even in the October off season. (Unlike the Pacific side, which can get record rains in the fall, the Caribbean generally stays dry — big storms this week being an exception.) Most guidebook authors agree that the best Italian food in the country is served at La Pecora Nera (The Black Sheep), a restaurant opened by an Italian expatriate down the bumpy coastal road in Cocles. And in a nod to those who seek relaxation at the hands of others, the first Western-style spa — Pure Jungle Spa, offering products made with indigenous cacao and coconut — opened at La Costa de Papito bungalow hotel in 2005.

Still, a trip here feels like a well-kept secret: Of the 1.8 million visitors who come to Costa Rica each year, only 282,000 visit the Caribbean side. While Pacific Coast provinces such as Guanacaste are flush with condo towers, gated communities and luxury resorts, the black and golden-sand beaches stretching south of Limón on the Caribbean side remain virtually development free. Prices reflect the difference: Restaurant meals are $10-$20 a person, and even the more upscale hotels run $50 to $90 a night.

And that’s just fine with most people who already live here. In Puerto Viejo, developers tabled a proposal for a luxury marina after residents and conservation groups claimed the project would erode the town’s laid-back dynamic and nearby coral reefs. Likewise, locals have mixed feelings about plans to pave the pothole-ridden dirt roads leading into Puerto Viejo.

“It’s inevitable, the development, but it will be slower here, hopefully,” says Kevin Reilly, property manager of Global Creek, one of several yoga retreats built amid the jungle.

Getting there: Puerto Viejo is about 130 miles southeast of Costa Rica’s capital, San Jose.Various companies run bus and shuttle trips; driving time is about 4½ hours and costs about $35 one-way (506-2283-5573, Interbusonline.com). A more adventurous option is to take a white-water rafting trip on the Pacuare River with a company such as Exploradores Outdoors (506-2222-6262, exploradoresoutdoors.com) that will pick you up in San Jose and drop you at your coastal hotel for just $99.

Where to stay: Don’t look for cookie-cutter Western hotels here: Many lodgings are bungalow-style, and only a few have standard conveniences such as pools and air conditioning. Guests don’t seem to mind at Banana Azul (877-284-5116, bananaazul.com), where the beach breezes, along with the friendly bar and $10 dinners, keep the place full. Doubles, $59 and up. South of town, Cariblue (506-2750-0035, cariblue.com) is regarded as more family-friendly. Rates start at $90, not including tax. In Cahuita, El Encanto Bed & Breakfast (506-2755-0113, elencantobedandbreakfast.com), where doubles range from $55 to $75, has a refreshing pool.

Where to eat: With more expatriates moving in, Puerto Viejo’s food scene has expanded beyond Afro-Caribbean native dishes, with everything from Middle Eastern to sushi available along the town’s main drag. Reggae is the standard at live music venues such as the restaurant El Loco Natural. First-class Italian meals (with entrees ranging from $13 to $25) can be found at La Pecora Nera. In Cahuita, Cha Cha Cha draws an international crowd with an equally worldly menu. Miss Edith’s serves up favorites such as jerk chicken and coconut-sauced seafood on the cheap: A meal runs about $10.

Sightseeing: A host of tour operators will help set up everything from surfing lessons to visiting native Bri Bri tribes; most hotels can recommend their favorites. In Cahuita, Roberto’s Tours (506-2755-0117, robertostours.com) will guide you through the national park, then bring you out on a boat to snorkel the country’s largest coral reef.