Getting there: Puerto Viejo is about 130 miles southeast of Costa Rica’s capital, San Jose.Various companies run bus and shuttle trips; driving time is about 4½ hours and costs about $35 one-way (506-2283-5573, Interbusonline.com). A more adventurous option is to take a white-water rafting trip on the Pacuare River with a company such as Exploradores Outdoors (506-2222-6262, exploradoresoutdoors.com) that will pick you up in San Jose and drop you at your coastal hotel for just $99.
Where to stay: Don’t look for cookie-cutter Western hotels here: Many lodgings are bungalow-style, and only a few have standard conveniences such as pools and air conditioning. Guests don’t seem to mind at Banana Azul (877-284-5116, bananaazul.com), where the beach breezes, along with the friendly bar and $10 dinners, keep the place full. Doubles, $59 and up. South of town, Cariblue (506-2750-0035, cariblue.com) is regarded as more family-friendly. Rates start at $90, not including tax. In Cahuita, El Encanto Bed & Breakfast (506-2755-0113, elencantobedandbreakfast.com), where doubles range from $55 to $75, has a refreshing pool.
Where to eat: With more expatriates moving in, Puerto Viejo’s food scene has expanded beyond Afro-Caribbean native dishes, with everything from Middle Eastern to sushi available along the town’s main drag. Reggae is the standard at live music venues such as the restaurant El Loco Natural. First-class Italian meals (with entrees ranging from $13 to $25) can be found at La Pecora Nera. In Cahuita, Cha Cha Cha draws an international crowd with an equally worldly menu. Miss Edith’s serves up favorites such as jerk chicken and coconut-sauced seafood on the cheap: A meal runs about $10.
Sightseeing: A host of tour operators will help set up everything from surfing lessons to visiting native Bri Bri tribes; most hotels can recommend their favorites. In Cahuita, Roberto’s Tours (506-2755-0117, robertostours.com) will guide you through the national park, then bring you out on a boat to snorkel the country’s largest coral reef.



Nestled on hilltops overlooking the Pacific are Hacienda Dorada’s three luxurious custom made villas; all elegant, spacious, and surrounded by sights and sounds of the jungle. Each villa is but a walk to a secluded white sand beach. This beautiful retreat is the perfect vacation for the most discriminating group or family
Explore the beautiful Cahuita National Park and the Gandoca Manzanillo Refuge